Think of the infamous cottagecore, the egirl, or even the ‘ coconut girl ’-each community requires a specific clothing style to participate, promoting consumption among those wishing to fit the aesthetic. Lifestyle and fashion content is extremely popular on the platform-birthing an array of aesthetics. Therefore, the lifespan of trends and phenomena on TikTok are often short-lived, despite their popularity. The entire premise of the app is designed to give us short-form video content that is quick and easy to consume. Now, TikTok seems to be propelling this even further. Instagram, for example, has literally turned itself into a shopping app, as fast fashion brands all over the world are turning to influencers to market their clothes. Social media has always played a role in fashion consumption-it’s how most people tend to keep up with current trends or discover new brands nowadays. While questions were raised about the ethicality of affluent shoppers profiting from clothes they bought for discounted prices - often through transforming plus-size items into smaller garments - the movement has also encouraged people to get creative, inspire others and learn new skills.What if I told you that there is a connection between overconsumption, trends dying at the speed of light, and gen Z behaviour on TikTok? Similar to upcycling, it’s celebrated by some as a win for sustainability and saving money, but others have criticised the trend for gentrifying second hand shopping and perpetuating fatphobia. For many, it started as a lockdown hobby but evolved into them selling thrift-flipped clothing for profit on resale sites like Depop. The practice - where you take second-hand clothes and customise them - isn’t new, but TikTok brought it back into focus this year, with the hashtag racking up 1.9 billion views. You could spend the whole day traipsing through shops, just to return with nothing but sore feet. You may have dreams of finding well-fitted vintage Levis or the perfect second-hand leather jacket, but these days most charity shops are filled with last season’s Primark. Whether designers are ‘ thrift flipping’ their charity shop finds or stylists are sharing outfit inspo, TikTok has spawned fashion trends and triggered whole cultural waves. While its impact is clearly felt in the industry, it’s over on TikTok itself that the app’s ability to shift the fashion landscape is really obvious. In response, the designer released the original pattern so fans could recreate the piece more accurately. Then, of course, there was the JW Anderson patchwork cardigan that became a TikTok sensation in its own right, originally worn by Harry Styles and crocheted at home by legions of TikTokers. Elsewhere, Ludovic de Saint Sernin presented his two-part e-Boy collection for SS21 and AW21, with rainbow Swarovski crop tops and cross-laced bandeaux. For Celine’s SS21 menswear collection, Hedi Slimane paid tribute to the myriad subcultures on the platform, with silver chain necklaces, dangly earrings, beanies and sweater-shirt combos. And the love goes both ways, with designers increasingly looking to TikTok for inspiration.
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